Fabric selection for specific apparel production is very important. As we know, fabrics are designed for specific
applications, meaning a fabric created for one purpose, may not be used for
another purpose. Similarly, fabric quality influences the quality of the
garment along with the structure of flat fabric. Fabrics specifications
for apparel manufacturing can be considered by primary and secondary quality
characteristics.
To ‘better fitting to the human body’ Fabric
performance is an essential requirement of clothing materials. In a result, primary
quality characteristics are static physical dimensions and secondary
characteristics are the reactions of the fabric to an applied dynamic force.
Besides, fabric behavior and characteristics play a vital role in the design
and development of a functional garment. Varieties of fabrics are used for
various purpose for example, sportswear fabrics are not similar to sleeping
wear.
Fabric Properties
Physical properties:
In general fabric physical properties are considered as primary
requirements for fabric selection as dimensional parameter; these include
thread linear density, ends and picks per cm in woven fabric or courses and
wales per cm in knitted fabric, length and width areal density, weave, fabric
cover, and dimensional stability. There are some other mandatory tests including
color fastness and washing, light, perspiration, dry cleaning, and
rubbing. The percentage blend of component fibers is determined by blended
fabric. In some cases, flammability and the presence of certain hazardous
chemicals are also determined on the basis of the end-use and buyer’s
requirement. Fabric density, fabric thickness, and moisture regain value
are determined for detailed characterization of fabric quality depending
on the requirement.
Mechanical
properties:
Mechanical
properties of fabrics are important for stresses applied to the fabrics in
making-up as well as the physical changes in the fabric. Which later result
from application of forces in a garment during its use. Besides, bending, compression
and shear properties are important for garment making-up. All these properties
influence both sew ability and the shape of the fabrics. Moreover, some special
properties are also looked into such as bursting strength, , resin content,
weather resistance, elastic modulus, stretch ability, drying speed, light
reflectance, , moth resistance, size content, oily and fatty matter, foreign
matter , scouring loss, degumming loss,
glossiness, color index, , solvent extract and nets.
Fabric performance:
For fabric sourcing, fabric performance is evaluated more strongly.
Besides, mechanical properties such as shear, compression tensile, bending, and
surface properties are given priority as important in deciding the utility
and mechanical comfort performance of a fabric. In the tailoring
process, an initially flat fabric is converted into a three-dimensional
garment. According to Analysis of the tailoring process reveals that these
properties are equally important in the making-up process of the garment. The
ability of a fabric to be converted into a 3D shape to fit a 3D surface,
is dependent on the above mechanical properties. Eventually, this
conversion requires complex mechanical deformation of the fabric at very
low loads. In the meantime, it is also dependent on the techniques of
garment manufacture, particularly on the amount of overfeeding adopted in
certain operations.
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